I personally used white Craft smart Polymer Clay and just a metal spoon and a toothpick as my sculpting tools. This means that this technique can only be used for ABS, or other higher extrusion temp materials.Ĭredit: The files used to illustrate the process can be found here:īulbasaur Pumpkin Tealight Remix by Blackhartfilms If I get better at sanding, I may decide that applying clay is too long of a process.Īmendment: Because Polymer Clay is a polymer (plastic), it cannot properly harden at a lower baking temperature than given in the instructions. ![]() The upside, is that this process can aid in attaching separate parts together permanently and can fix defects that the other two process cannot.įor me, this is my preferred method for smoothing, as I can apply the clay while watching TV and not have to worry about concentrating too hard (whereas with a Dremel, you need to pay close attention to what you are doing). ![]() This has to be taken into consideration when creating fitted parts. With regards to toxicity, I'd say it's safer than chemical smoothing, but I still suggest using ventilation and a non-food-used oven when baking it.Ī major downside is the tendency for the part to shrink during the baking process. Depending on your level of sanding skill, applying the clay can take longer or shorter than sanding. Chemical-smoothing is dangerous as it involves toxic and highly flammable chemicals, and sanding takes patience and well-toned hand muscles or skill with a Dremel.Īs an alternative to these two methods, I looked to polymer clay as another form of smoothing.Īpplying the clay takes patience and a little skill (with the help of "tools"). There are two main methods for smoothing those layers to obtain an injection-molded plastic look: chemical-smoothing or sanding. Fused-Filament Fabrication (FFF) or Fused-Deposition Modeling (FDM) -"3D Printing"- create amazing parts, but generally with visible layers.
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